How To Get the Fattest Discount Possible
January 22nd, 2008 6:44 AMI try not to spend money on new stuff, but when I do, I follow a few simple rules:
- Always use a credit card with rewards. It boggles my mind that there are people out there using credit cards that offer absolutely no cash back or points. Unless you have bad credit, then you’re losing out! I primarily use a card that offers 2% back on all purchases, which are deposited quarterly into a 529.
- Always use the credit card with the best rewards for your spending category. For example, grocery stores, drug stores, and gas can often yield you 5% in cash back rewards. Don’t use a credit card that will only get you 1% cash back on those categories! In particular, I take advantage of Discover’s Get More program each quarter when they offer 5% cash back on different categories like travel or movies.
- Use a website like Bond Rewards (please leave a comment if you’d like a referral) or FatWallet to get a percentage of your purchase back. These sites essentially join affiliate programs and earn money for each customer they refer. In turn, they then give you a percentage of those earnings. The site ev’reward compares rewards and cash back for different sites, so you can always use the highest earning ones. Just keep in mind that earnings can take a really long time to show up and occasionally require a little prodding.
- Search for rebates and discounts using sites like FatWallet and SlickDeals. Lately, I’ve found myself at RetailMeNot a lot, too, for coupon codes. A popular search for me in particular is to type some store name followed by “coupon”, “discount”, “promo code”, etc. into Blingo.
- Look for rebates and the lowest prices on PriceGrabber. I especially like PriceGrabber, as they have a rebate program that offers you $5 (sometimes more) for writing a very short review of a product. This is only available to the first 25 (or is it 50?) reviewers and only for some products, and they’ve never denied me a rebate.
- Be patient. Prices usually drop on items. Do you really need it now? I bet there will be a sale or price drop at some point. Most retail prices have a lot of wiggle room. The day I buy a Wii, for example, is not coming anytime soon. Somewhat related is buy quickly when you see an incredible price. It won’t last long. If you buy from a place like Amazon, then make sure you use a site like Refund Please to take advantage of price drop refunds. Some credit cards even have price guarantees, too. Read the fine print in your agreement!
Also, remember to keep copies of all your rebate forms! Rebate processors are infamous for denying rebates, so you should always be able to provide proof. It’s your money. Make sure they give it to you!
Many people think chasing after rebates and discounts like this is a complete waste of time, but when they find out how much I actually spend on items, they’re invariably convinced that I have the right approach (unless they happen to be total moneybags who like to waste money). For example, guess how much I paid for my TiVo. Absolutely nothing! It was free after rebate. (Side note: do searches on FatWallet for the acronym FAR.) All I had to do was fork over money for a lifetime subscription.


